Skincare products and ingredients explained
In the world of skin care, we are faced
with a huge variety of products. Sometimes it's hard to find exactly what your
skin and your problem really needs, because we just get lost in various mysterious
and sometimes strange-sounding ingredients. That is why we have created a
special GSkin dictionary where you can find meanings and explanations for all
incomprehensible, but such important ingredients and finally understand which
ones are right for you!
Adenosine molecules are essential for regulating blood flow and providing energy to cells and are present in the cells of all living organisms.
Adenosine is one of the most advanced new generation ingredients. This component greatly increases the production of collagen and elastin in the skin, softens and tightens the skin, restores it after excess sunbathing and relaxes wrinkles.
That is why adenosine began to be actively used in cosmetics for the face and body as one of the most effective anti-aging agents against wrinkles and smoothing the skin relief, as well as slowing down the aging process. It also affects the synthesis of procollagen, which is responsible for the elasticity and tone of the skin.
Adenosine is also known for its strong anti-inflammatory and healing properties, and therefore is actively used in beauty products aimed at restoring the skin after various procedures.
The abbreviation AHA can often be found on jars with a variety of cosmetic products - from serums to toners. AHAs or alpha hydroxy acids are natural fruit acids. AHA-acids contribute to the active renewal of skin cells and even out its color and relief. They can often be found in the composition of deep cleansing products: they literally dissolve the dead particles of the upper layers of the epidermis and promote gentle but effective exfoliation without causing irritation.
AHA can be found in products for all skin types, although they are more often used in the care of oily problem skin. They help to thoroughly cleanse the pores of excess sebum, prevent the development of acne and the formation of comedones, and relieve inflammation.
Allantoin is one of the most common ingredients in Korean skincare. It is often used in masks, it smoothes, rids the skin of dead cells and stimulates renewal. It is designated differently, so it can be hidden under several names on the label: Glyoxyldiureid, Cordianin, 5-Ureido-2,4-Imidazolidindion, 5-Ureidohydantoin, Alantoin, Allantonin, Allantoine.
Allantoin in cosmetics shows regenerative properties, accelerating skin healing, relieving irritation and itching. Also, the substance softens the surface of the skin and helps remove dead cells. Due to this, there is no clogging of the pores, which prevents the appearance of comedones.
In addition, allantoin contributes to the renewal of the epidermis and therefore is often found in anti-aging care products.
Most often, allantoin is found in the composition of care products for dry skin. Dry skin usually shrinks, flakes and suffers from cold and sun. Some elements of nourishing creams help retain moisture, but allantoin eliminates irritation and flaking.
Cosmetics with this substance are recommended for recovery due to sunburn, mechanical or chemical damage. The pain syndrome is removed after the first use.
Aloe vera extract
Aloe vera moisturizes the skin, saturates it with vitamins and microelements, makes it supple and elastic, relieves inflammation, participates in tissue regeneration, rejuvenates and enhances the protective properties of the skin.
The use of cosmetics with aloe is possible for all skin types.
· for dry skin: aloe "locks" moisture and nourishes the deep tissues of the epidermis;
· for oily skin: aloe normalizes the sebaceous glands and prevents acne;
· for problematic and sensitive skin: relieves inflammation, saturates the skin with vitamins and microelements, participates in regeneration;
· for aging skin: tightens the oval
of the face, smoothes the relief, increases elasticity and firmness.
Apple seed oil
Apple seed oil softens, protects, moisturizes and nourishes the skin. Regular use of oil helps restore skin elasticity, increases collagen synthesis. The oil contains essential fatty acids that restore the natural functions of the skin and eliminate inflammation.
The oil is useful for both problem skin and dry skin: it helps restore the optimal water-fat balance, relieves peeling and discomfort, makes the skin soft, smooth and elastic.
For aging skin: actively contributes to the renewal of skin cells, moisturizing, a large content of organic sulfur compounds is necessary for the reproduction of collagen, which gives the skin youth and elasticity.
Apricot kernel oil
Apricot kernel oil is ideal for sensitive and allergenic, dry or mature skin. It has a refreshing, regenerating, soothing and tonic effect, actively relieves redness and dermatitis, and restores skin elasticity. With regular use, it gives the skin a surprisingly beautiful and delicate, and most importantly even color. This is one of the best oils for complex care for very delicate skin of the eyelids. It also actively restores the tone and natural elasticity of sagging skin. Promotes the synthesis of collagen and elastin fibers, smoothes fine wrinkles.
Avocado extract is quickly absorbed by the skin, contains a large list of nutrients and has a low odor - all this makes avocado extract practically the best moisturizing component in skin care cosmetics.
Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory substances in avocado extract help the skin to be radiant, supple and elastic, soothe the skin, relieve itching and irritation, and heal damage. Also, avocado extract contains beta-carotene, proteins, lecithin, fatty acids, vitamins A, E and D, which nourish and saturate the skin, increase the reproduction of collagen in the skin and create a protective barrier against solar radiation and the negative effects of the environment.
Ourskin is very fond of B vitamins. The systematic use of cosmetic products withvitamins of group "B" allows you to achieve a pronounced correctionof such problems as redness and irritation of the skin, acne and post-acne,increased oiliness of the skin. In addition, small wrinkles are smoothed out,and the face takes on a rested and refreshed look. Vitamins of group "B" represent the most extensive group of organic compounds:
VitaminB1 (thiamine) - smoothes wrinkles and improves skin texture, increases itselasticity, prevents aging processes. Shows high efficiency on fading skin.
VitaminB2 (riboflavin) - eliminates peeling and dryness, restores a healthy color andnormalizes metabolic processes, stimulates the production of cellular energy,has a wound healing effect.
Vitamin B3 (niacinamid) Niacinamide is a water-soluble B vitamin (also known as vitamin B3), a vital element for the whole body, and for the skin in particular. As part of skin care products, niacinamide helps strengthen the protective hydrolipidic barrier of the stratum corneum and thereby prevents dehydration and loss of moisture from the deep layers. It also reduces the impact of negative environmental factors and has an anti-aging effect so that it looks healthier and fresher, younger.
Niacinamide is present in products that are suitable for all skin types, sensitive is no exception.
Niacinamide has a number of useful properties:
· Increases the synthesis of ceramides - lipids responsible for the integrity of the hydrolipidic barrier. The skin becomes stronger, dryness, tightness and peeling go away.
· Affects the process of pigmentation - slows down the delivery of melanin to the epidermis.
· Reduces skin sensitivity to external irritants.
· Promotes collagen production and density increase.
· Reduces transepidermal water loss.
· Strengthens the skin's protective barrier.
VitaminB5 (pantothenic acid) - stops inflammatory processes, accelerates regenerationprocesses. Its deficiency is manifested by dryness, peeling of the skin,dermatitis, eczema. VitaminB6 (pyridoxine) - has moisturizing, nourishing and protective properties. Ithas a pronounced healing effect, regenerates. Protects the skin from UVradiation and aggressive environmental influences.
VitaminB9 (folic acid) - normalizes the secretion of sebum, protects againstinflammation and acne.
VitaminB12 (cobalamin, cyanocobalamin) - rejuvenates, improves blood circulation,accelerates the regeneration of damaged cells, stops inflammation.
BHA (or Salicylic acid)
BHA or salicylic acid has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, exfoliates dead skin cells from the surface of the skin and reduces sebum production. Moreover, since salicylic acid is a derivative of aspirin, it has anti-inflammatory properties - it reduces inflammation, eliminates redness, and improves healing. These properties are used in the treatment of acne. The anti-inflammatory properties of salicylic acid help fight the bacteria that cause acne.
BHA acids dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells, improving their exfoliation. As a result, the renewal of skin cells improves, the thickness of the stratum corneum decreases, the relief is evened out, wrinkles are smoothed out, superficial pigmentation is brightened, and complexion improves.
Blueberry extract has a anti-aging effect, relieves puffiness and dark circles under the eyes, is effective against tired, flabby skin, strengthens collagen fibers and capillary walls, thanks to it the skin gains elasticity, healthy radiance, slightly brightens, tones up.
Moreover, blueberry extract perfectly cleanses and tightens pores, regulates the functioning of the sebaceous and sweat glands, exfoliates dead skin cells. It also has antibacterial and antifungal effects, stimulates skin cell division and rapid healing of wounds, soothes the skin, and has a slight analgesic effect.
Blueberry extract is also effective for chapped, frostbitten, sunburned skin due to its moisturizing, nourishing and soothing properties, it helps quickly eliminate cracks and areas of rough, overdried skin.
Brown Algae (Laminaria)
Laminaria is a brown algae, perhaps one of the most famous varieties of algae. It is a champion in iodine content. Due to their nourishing properties, brown algae masks have a magical effect on the skin, which is why they are considered the best natural skin care product.
Laminaria is rich in vitamins and minerals, so it can provide invaluable health benefits, as well as a anti-aging and nourishing effect on the skin. It effectively moisturizes the skin and fights aging.
Each vitamin and nutrient element in the composition of brown algae penetrates deeply into the skin and actively works at the cellular level, participating in metabolic processes and thereby improving the condition of even the most problematic skin. Very good for mature skin. This plant has regenerative properties that remove dead cells, and the skin becomes fresh and toned.
Vitamin C is an excellent anti-aging component that acts on several fronts at once:
· Protects skin cells from oxidation or, simply put, is one of the most famous and popular antioxidants;
· Stimulates the synthesis of collagen, strengthens the skin, increases its elasticity;
· Returns skin radiance and evens out skin tone;
· Lightens the skin (pigment spots, post-acne marks, etc.), plus, fights the signs of photoaging of the skin;
· Helps strengthen capillaries (which is very useful for rosacea).
Cactus extract protects the skin from free radicals and prevents aging, perfectly nourishes and regenerates the skin, smoothes wrinkles. It has a moisturizing effect on the skin, restores the natural water balance and serves as a source of nutrients that improve blood circulation and strengthen capillary walls. Cactus extract is used in cosmetic products for the care of mature and aging skin.
Cacti grow in the desert, where the scorching sun shines and there is practically no rainfall. Their entire body is adapted to retain moisture and protect from sun exposure. Therefore, cactus extract in cosmetic preparations successfully resists the negative factors that accompany sunbathing. It protects the skin from dehydration, which means it prolongs its youth and beauty.
Calamine is primarily an effective cosmetic product that soothes the skin. Calamine is used in products to fight inflammation and acne. In addition, calamine has antipruritic, drying, soothing and cooling effects. This active ingredient reduces puffiness, relieves inflammation and irritation of the skin, and also helps to activate the regenerative functions of the epidermis in order to quickly form a protective barrier after damage, preventing further exposure to irritating factors from the outside.
Calamine effectively relieves redness, burning and irritation of the skin. In addition to the fact that calamine powder has a pronounced antiseptic effect and effectively treats the skin from bacterial eruptions, it also has a gentle toning effect.
Сamellia leaf extract
Camellia leaf extract contains a huge amount of biologically active substances. It is a plant antioxidant that helps maintain youthfulness and beauty of the skin, improves complexion and slows down the aging process. The extract has an anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effect, and also contributes to the active penetration of biologically active substances into the skin.
Caffeine contained in Camellia extract improves blood microcirculation and skin nutrition, reduces swelling. In addition, due to the many vitamins it contains, Camellia extract gives skin elasticity, has wound healing properties, activates blood circulation, supplies oxygen to cells and enhances the protective properties of the skin.
Centella asiatica (Cica)
Centella Asiatica has taken a special place in Korean cosmetics. Products with this extract are well suited for damaged skin. Cica relieves inflammation, soothes, heals small wounds, fights post-acne, scars and skin aging.
Properties of centella asiatica:
· Contains a powerful antioxidant that triggers the skin's natural production of collagen and hyaluronic acid. Thanks to this property, cica actively fights aging.
· Reduces the activity of pathogenic bacteria and heals the epidermis, fights scars and post-acne.
· Smoothes wrinkles, relieves dryness and flaking.
· Refreshes the skin. It has a light brightening effect, reduces the severity of age spots.
· Improves blood circulation, fights dullness, improves complexion. Indicated for rosacea.
Chamomile extract is suitable for any skin type, it is used in a variety of cosmetic products, and the potential of this substance remains huge, which makes it a sought-after and indispensable component.
Useful properties of chamomile extract in cosmetics:
· Promotes skin regeneration;
· Protects the skin from the negative influence of the external environment;
· Well tones the skin;
· Removes toxins from the skin;
· Stabilizes the level of moisture in the skin;
· Fights wrinkles;
· Accelerates the process of regeneration of skin cells.
Cinnamon extract stimulates cell renewal, improves skin tone, has a strong antioxidant effect, relieves skin flabbiness, improves complexion and tightens its contour.
Cinnamon extract regulates oily skin, cleanses pores, prevents the development of acne; softens and accelerates the exfoliation of dead cells.
Also, cinnamon extract has an antimicrobial effect, is detrimental to many types of bacteria, accelerates the restoration of the skin epithelium in places of scratches and abrasions, accelerates the healing of the skin with eczema, neurodermatitis. Moreover, it accelerates blood circulation and lymph movement and stimulates the smoothing of acne scars.
Citrus extract in cosmetics is most often used to whiten the skin, refresh and narrow pores. Korean manufacturers widely use the component in their formulas because of the uniqueness of the product: it can affect several problems at once.
Citrus extract affects the skin in the following ways:
· improves appearance;
· compensates for the lack of vitamins;
· gives elasticity;
· evens out the tone
· smoothes wrinkles;
· relieves swelling;
· accelerates blood microcirculation;
· restores water-alkaline balance;
· has a bactericidal effect;
· promotes wound healing.
The condition of the skin directly depends on collagen ─ the basis of the connective tissue, which is responsible for the elasticity of the skin. In the skin, collagen is located in the dermal layer (in other words, in its “base”) and makes up about 70% of all skin tissue proteins. Thanks to collagen, the skin is smooth and elastic - without wrinkles. Collagen helps the skin retain its ability to recover from visible changes under stress. Collagen stabilizes our face oval, preventing it from sinking down. With the help of collagen, the skin can regulate the water-lipid balance and does not dry out.
After 25 years, the natural production of collagen decreases, on average, by 1.5% per year, and after 40 years, collagen in skin cells is consumed at a very rapid pace. Smoking, fast food and sunburn, constant stress and lack of sleep increase the likelihood of impaired collagen synthesis in skin cells. With age, the skin “sags” unevenly, the oval becomes flabby, wrinkles appear on the face. That is why collagen products are a powerful anti-aging helper for the skin.
Echinacea increases cellular immunity, maintains the necessary level of skin moisture, due to which it visually reduces wrinkles. Stimulates microcirculation and the production of skin's own collagen, strengthens the walls of blood vessels. Refreshes, giving the skin a healthy and radiant look.
Echinacea extract stimulates skin hydration, increasing its level of moisture, reduces wrinkles. The active components of echinacea protect the hyaluronic acid inside from destruction. Regenerates, protects and brightens the skin, helps fight acne.
Green tea extract
One of the most important properties of green tea extract is its antioxidant effect. Ascorbic acid comes out on top in terms of content in different varieties of green tea. Under its influence, the skin is not exposed to free radicals and stays young longer: it becomes softer, firmer and more elastic.
Green tea extract is also necessary for problematic, combination and oily skin, because it helps fight acne.
Green tea has a pronounced moisturizing effect, helps control the water balance of the skin and prevents the appearance of peeling. Products with green tea extract moisturize and nourish the skin with moisture, enhance its regeneration, heal cuts, scratches and post-acne marks.
On the skin, it promotes healing, has a calming and anti-inflammatory effect. In cosmetic products, honey softens the skin. In facial care, it is mainly used for stressed, sensitive and dry skin.
Hyaluronic acid has an amazing moisturizing effect that is superior to any other moisturizing cosmetics:
· attracts water molecules and holds them
· prevents the evaporation of moisture by forming a protective film
· protects from adverse external factors
· synthesizes elastin and collagen
Impact on the skin of the face:
· intense skin hydration
· color improvement, radiance
· increase in elasticity
· reduction of roughness
· smoothing fine wrinkles
· slowing down the aging process
A sufficient level of moisture allows the tissue repair process to work in full. For facial skin, hyaluronate has a powerful moisturizing effect, which is achieved with the help of cosmetic products containing hyaluronic acid.
Hydrogenperoxide has propertiesthat slow down the aging process, strengthen and cleanse the skin. Hence thewidespread use of small amounts of hydrogen hydroxide, for example in acnelotions or creams. Hydrogen peroxideimproves elasticity and is good for cleansing pores. Even a small amount ofthis substance significantly improves the absorption of nutrients by the skin.
Madecassoside helps visibly rejuvenate the skin by stimulating the synthesis of its own collagen. As a result, it is updated faster, wrinkles are smoothed out, post-acne spots and pigmentation disappear, the number of inflammations is reduced, existing imperfections heal faster.
With regular use of the product based on madecassoside, you get:
• Elimination of inflammatory processes on the skin of the face;
• stimulation of the synthesis of own collagen and elastin;
• Reducing the number and depth of wrinkles due to tissue regeneration;
• Softer, firmer, cleaner and fresher skin;
• Tightened oval of the face and its clearer contours.
Most often, Korean manufacturers use madecassoside in powerful anti-aging or anti-inflammatory products.
Mandarin peel extract
Mandarin peel extract helps hide numerous cosmetic imperfections on the skin. The antiseptic properties of mandarin extract allow it to be used as a healing agent. In addition, it provides a tonic effect on the skin, exhibits cooling properties, narrows enlarged pores and eliminates greasy shine. Mandarin extract is added to brightening cosmetic compositions: in combination with more powerful active substances, it helps control melanin biosynthesis, preventing the development of hyperpigmentation and even even out skin tone and texture.
In addition to the advantages described above, mandarin extract is also capable of preventing aging. The fact is that mandarin extract improves local blood circulation, due to which the skin begins to be better supplied with oxygen and, accordingly, it helps to restore a fresher complexion and has a positive effect on other aesthetic characteristics of the skin - elasticity. In addition, intensive microcirculation prevents the development of wrinkles, ptosis, skin blemishes and other visible signs of aging.
Manuka honey is a honey produced by honey bees from the flower nectar of South Sea myrtle (Manuka), which is traditionally used as a natural medicine.
It provides the skin with a lot of moisture and promotes the formation of new collagen and elastin. This ensures an even complexion and a rosy radiance. It restores the skin's balance and promotes its regeneration.
Der Haut spendet Manuka-Honig besonders viel Feuchtigkeit und fördert die Neubildung von Kollagen und Elastin. Das sorgt für einen ebenmäßigen Teint und eine rosige Ausstrahlung. Er stellt das Hautgleichgewicht wieder her und fördert ihre Regeneration.
Matcha green tea powder
Japanese matcha tea in cosmetology is a new trend that is at its peak not only in Asian countries, but also in Europe. Matcha has 137 times more antioxidants than regular green tea. And an huge dose of caffeine helps tone the skin and protect against harmful environmental factors.
Green tea powder has the following cosmetic properties:
· removes toxins from the skin due to the presence of the amino acid theanine;
· smoothes mimic wrinkles;
· increases skin elasticity;
· reduces inflammatory processes;
· protects the skin from free radicals due to chlorophyll in the composition;
· the whitening effect is achieved due to the content of vitamin C and E in the powder;
· fights pigmentation;
· protects from harmful ultraviolet rays;
· improves skin color and evens out its tone;
· fights oily skin.
Orchid extract has a nourishing and moisturizing effect. The antioxidant complex of orchid extract increases the skin's resistance to negative environmental factors, enhances skin immunity and neutralizes the action of free radicals.
Orchid extract is ideal for all skin types, but it is most effective in anti-aging cosmetics.
In the composition of cosmetics, orchid extract:
· Moisturizes and nourishes the skin;
· Smoothes wrinkles and restores skin elasticity;
· Increases skin elasticity;
· Promotes skin regeneration;
· Restores and protects the skin;
· Tones the skin.
Panthenol in cosmetics has earned a reputation as a powerful external regenerating, healing, moisturizing agent. As part of cosmetic formulas, vitamin B5 is found in the form of pantothenic acid derivatives. Often used in the basis of soothing products for sensitive, dry, oily and problematic facial skin, as well as in the formulas of after-sun products.
Its ability to stimulate the synthesis of collagen and elastin, reduce mimic wrinkles, smooth out the skin relief allows the use of panthenol as part of anti-aging corrective care.
Products with PHA are a relatively new direction in cosmetology. Previously, PHAs were found mainly in the composition of combined products with AHA and BHA acids, and now they are also used as the main ingredient. They can be found in peels, creams, masks and skin cleansers.
PHA acids and AHA are very similar in effect: they act in the superficial layers of the skin, help fight wrinkles, pigmentation, and help improve skin tone. But due to shallow penetration, they are less likely to lead to irritation. The undeniable advantage of PHA acids is that, unlike AHA and BHA, they do not increase skin photosensitivity.
PHA is also a better choice for people with a broken skin barrier (suffering from atopic dermatitis, rosacea, skin hypersensitivity syndrome) and people living in very sunny countries.
Peony root extract
Products with an extract of Peony root moisturize the skin, correct irregularities, narrow pores, reduce fine lines and improve complexion.
Cosmetic effect of Peony root extract:
· smoothing wrinkles;
· improvement of skin microrelief;
· normalization of metabolic processes in tissues;
· return of elasticity;
· anti-inflammatory action.
Pomegranate extract is effective in fighting wrinkles. In addition, the polyphenols contained in pomegranate bind free radicals, thereby preventing premature aging of the skin. The active substances that make up the fruit moisturize dry skin, soften it and make it elastic. They relieve inflammation, have a slight exfoliating effect and give the skin a healthy, attractive appearance.
Rose extract has a vitaminizing, anti-inflammatory, toning effect on the skin, participates in the formation of full-fledged collagen, and normalizes intracellular metabolism. Prevents the accumulation of decay products by the skin and increases its defenses. Rose extract soothes irritated, flaky skin, which is why it is commonly found in many lotions and tonners for almost any skin type. Having an anti-inflammatory effect, rose extract accelerates the healing of cracks and wounds on the skin, reduces skin hyperpigmentation during acne exacerbation, improves complexion, making it fresher, strengthens the walls of blood vessels. Given this effect of the extract, it is often included in the composition of skin care products for inflamed and acne-prone skin.
Soy extract in skin care has the property of smoothing wrinkles and deeply moisturizing the skin. Soy contains the so-called isoflavone in a sufficiently large amount, it protects the skin from hormonal aging. Therefore, soy is most often included in the composition of anti-aging cosmetics. Soy extract perfectly moisturizes, nourishes, rejuvenates and regenerates the skin at the cellular level.
Soy extract also retains moisture. This property is relevant for both anti-aging products and moisturizers, especially for dry and sensitive skin.
Since the amino acids of soy and human skin are similar in composition, products with soy proteins act very gently and are appropriate for use on the most delicate and vulnerable areas of the face, for example, around the eyes.
White willow bark extract
Willow bark extract is great for treating acne, because this component perfectly dries inflammation on the skin.
Products with this extract have a mild cleansing, perfectly cleanses the pores of the skin from excess oily sheen. It helps balance oily skin.
One of the most used ingredients in Korean cosmetics is charcoal. This popular component has long been known for its cleansing properties. It acts as an adsorbent - a "sponge" that attracts and draws out all toxins, pollution, etc. The carbon in the composition of coal restores the skin, and the charcoal itself stimulates and accelerates skin renewal.
Charcoal is a chic option for oily, problematic skin:
· it perfectly removes excess sebum
· cleanses the skin
· normalizes water-fat balance
· tightens pores
· prevents inflammation
· evens out the relief